Indian Fashion Glossary: 75+ Terms Every Fashion Lover Should Know

Indian fashion has its own vocabulary — embroidery techniques, fabric names, silhouette styles, and regional terms that can be overwhelming if you're new to it. This glossary covers everything from common terms to obscure craft names, organised for easy reference.

Silhouettes & Garment Types

Anarkali — A long, flared kurta style inspired by Mughal court dancers. Falls from the bust in an A-line or umbrella cut. Named after the legendary courtesan Anarkali.

Churidar — Fitted trousers that bunch at the ankles in folds (churis mean bangles). Worn under kurtas and kameez.

Dupatta — A long scarf or stole, typically 2-2.5 metres, draped with Indian outfits. Can be heavily embroidered or plain.

Gharara — Wide-legged trousers with a knee-length flare, creating a ruched effect. Traditional to Lucknow. Similar to sharara but gathers below the knee.

Kameez — A tunic or long shirt, typically worn with salwar or churidar. Part of the salwar kameez ensemble.

Kurta — A long, loose shirt or tunic. Can be simple or heavily embroidered. The foundation of many Indian outfits.

Lehenga — A long, flared skirt worn for weddings and formal occasions. Usually heavily embroidered and paired with a choli (blouse) and dupatta.

Palazzo — Wide-legged, flowing trousers. A contemporary addition to Indian fashion, often paired with kurtas.

Salwar — Loose, pleated trousers that taper at the ankle. Part of the Punjabi salwar kameez.

Saree/Sari — An unstitched drape, typically 5-9 metres long, worn wrapped around the body with a petticoat and blouse.

Sharara — Wide-legged, flared trousers. Unlike gharara, the flare begins from the waist or hip.

Embroidery Techniques

Aari — Chain stitch embroidery done with a hooked needle. Creates flowing, intricate patterns. Originally from Kashmir.

Chikankari — Delicate white threadwork on white or pastel fabric, traditional to Lucknow. Features shadow work and pulled thread techniques.

Cutwork — Embroidery where parts of the fabric are cut away, creating open patterns often filled with lace-like stitching.

Gota Patti — Appliqué work using gold or silver ribbon cut into shapes and stitched onto fabric. Traditional Rajasthani technique.

Kantha — Running stitch embroidery from Bengal, traditionally used to quilt layers of old saris together.

Kashida — Kashmiri embroidery featuring nature motifs (especially the chinar leaf) in satin stitch.

Marodi — A hook-and-chain technique creating raised, textured motifs. Also called aari in some regions.

Mirror work (Shisha) — Small mirrors stitched into fabric, surrounded by embroidery. Traditional to Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Mukesh — Metallic badla work from Lucknow using flattened wire to create delicate patterns.

Phulkari — "Flower work" from Punjab, featuring geometric patterns in vibrant silk thread.

Resham — Silk thread embroidery, used for colourful floral and paisley motifs.

Sequin work — Decorative stitching with small metallic discs. Can be scattered or densely packed.

Zardozi — Heavy metallic embroidery using gold or silver wire, beads, and sequins. The most luxurious form of Indian embroidery.

Fabrics

Banarasi — Silk brocade from Varanasi featuring woven gold or silver zari. Traditional for bridal wear.

Brocade — Woven fabric with raised patterns, often featuring metallic threads.

Chanderi — Lightweight fabric from Madhya Pradesh combining cotton and silk, with a subtle sheen.

Chiffon — Sheer, lightweight fabric with a soft drape. Popular for sarees and dupattas.

Crepe — Fabric with a crinkled texture, drapes well and resists wrinkles.

Georgette — Sheer, crepe-like fabric with a slightly grainy texture. Heavier than chiffon.

Ikat — Tie-dye technique where threads are dyed before weaving, creating blurred geometric patterns.

Jacquard — Woven fabric with integrated patterns created on the loom.

Kanjivaram/Kanjeevaram — Heavy silk saree from Tamil Nadu, known for temple borders and contrasting pallus.

Khadi — Handspun, handwoven cotton. Symbol of Indian independence movement.

Mul/Mulmul — Fine, soft cotton muslin. Very breathable, traditional for summer.

Organza — Thin, sheer fabric with a crisp finish. Holds embroidery well despite lightness.

Patola — Double ikat silk from Gujarat. Extremely labour-intensive to produce.

Raw silk — Textured silk with natural slubs. More matte than refined silk.

Tissue — Metallic fabric that combines silk with gold or silver threads. Shimmers without being heavy.

Velvet — Dense, plush fabric with a soft pile. Used for winter and formal occasions.

Textile Techniques

Ajrakh — Block printing from Sindh/Gujarat using natural dyes in geometric patterns.

Bagru — Block printing from Rajasthan using mud-resist technique.

Bandhani/Bandhej — Tie-dye technique creating small dots by tying fabric before dyeing.

Batik — Wax-resist dyeing technique creating flowing patterns.

Block print — Printing using carved wooden blocks dipped in dye.

Dabu — Mud-resist printing from Rajasthan creating muted, earthy patterns.

Kalamkari — Hand-painted or block-printed fabric featuring mythological scenes. From Andhra Pradesh.

Leheriya — Diagonal tie-dye waves from Rajasthan. Traditional for monsoon season.

Shibori — Japanese tie-dye technique now common in Indian fashion.

Embellishments

Badla — Flattened metallic wire used in Lucknowi embroidery.

Bugle beads — Long, tubular glass beads used in embroidery.

Cutdana — Small metallic beads, often faceted, used in formal embroidery.

Gota — Gold or silver ribbon used in appliqué.

Kiran — Gold or silver fringed lace used on borders.

Kundan — Glass stones set in gold foil, used in jewellery and embroidery.

Mukaish — Tiny metallic dots creating texture in Lucknowi work.

Pearls (Moti) — Used extensively in Indian embroidery and jewellery.

Sequins — Flat metallic discs in various sizes.

Zari — Metallic thread (gold or silver) used in weaving and embroidery.

Regional Styles

Kashmiri — Known for pashmina wool and detailed chain stitch embroidery.

Lucknowi — Famous for chikankari embroidery and elegant Muslim-influenced designs.

Punjabi — Vibrant phulkari embroidery and salwar kameez silhouettes.

Rajasthani — Gota patti, bandhani, and leheriya; bold colours and mirror work.

South Indian — Temple jewellery, Kanjivaram silks, and nine-yard saree drapes.

Helpful Terms

Blouse — The fitted top worn under a saree. Also called choli.

Border/Kinari — Decorative edge of a saree or dupatta.

Pallu — The decorated end of a saree that drapes over the shoulder.

Petticoat — Underskirt worn beneath a saree.

Made to order — Garments produced after ordering, customised to measurements.

Karigar — Master artisan specialising in craft techniques.

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